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Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Amazing warlock control deck by Curi

About the Deck

This is a board control deck. It plays a strong, consistent early game with the goal of getting board control. Board control means you kill your opponent's creatures every turn while having some of your own left over.

Keeping board control means that as long as your opponent doesn't have charge, you get to control which creatures fight with which creatures. That's a big advantage. You want your 1/2 to fight his 1/1, your 2/1 to fight his 3/2, and your 5/2 or 5/3 to fight is 4/5 or 6/5. If your creatures are out first, you get to match up the fighting in your favor.

If you keep killing your opponent's creatures, you can get an advantage by "trading up." That means you trade a smaller or cheaper creature for his new creature. Frequently you can trade an old creature that already attacked several times for a new creature that your opponent just spent all his mana on. How? The best options are Shattered Sun Cleric, Dark Iron Dwarf, and Defender of Argus, which enable your older creature to deal more damage. You can also get extra damage from Demonfire, Knife Juggler, Soulfire, Power Overwhelming, or Mortal Coil. Also, if you have multiple weak creatures, you can trade them into a new creature and still get a good deal thanks to your card drawing effects like Novice Engineer and Life Tap.

Shattered Sun Cleric and Dark Iron Dwarf (which we'll call the buff creatures) are very powerful cards and this deck aims to take full advantage of them. In general, if both decks play a bunch of creatures, but I have buff creatures and my opponent doesn't, I will win because the buff creatures let me make really favorable trades in creature combat. If we both have buff creatures, then whoever gets board control has a big advantage because he will have creatures to buff while his opponent won't have anything to use his buffs on. The result is that most good creature decks use buff creatures, because they are so strong, and if everyone uses them then whoever gets board control has a big advantage.

So if both sides want board control so their buffers are more effective, and so they can control combat, what do you do to get it? You start playing creatures first! You need cheap creatures and cheap kill spells. And that's where the Warlock hero comes in. Warlock has six good 1 mana creatures (Blood Imp, Flame imp, Voidwalker). By using the Warlock 1 mana creatures in addition to the netural Argent Squire, we can achieve a deck with eight 1 mana creatures. That is more than any other standard deck is currently able to use effectively because Warlock has the best class-specific set of 1 mana creatures. We also get Soulfire, Mortal Coil, and Demonfire for cheap early removal.

There is a second reason for playing Warlock and it's Life Tap. If you play a lot of 1 mana creatures, what do you do later in the game? Other heroes risk running out of steam later in the game if they have too many early game cards. But with Warlock, playing lower mana cards means you have more mana left to draw cards with Life Tap, so it's much harder to run out of momentum.

The deck works by getting board control with the best and most consistent early game, with nineteen cards for 2 mana or less. Then, because you have board control, you will frequently "trade up" and get greater value from your small cards. Furthermore, you won't be attacked much as long as you keep the initiative, so the 2 damage from each Life Tap won't be a big problem.

It's rare to get bad hands with this deck. Nineteen cards from 0-2 mana mean you are virtually always going to draw good early game cards right from the start.

For the higher mana cards, they are eleven of the highest quality cards for 3+ mana. There’s no fear of losing steam in longer games because you can draw cards with Life Tap and the presence of Jaraxxus. You start off strong but you can win later too. This deck is strong all around!

This is not an all-in suicide rush deck. Be careful about area of effect spells and use Life Tap instead of overextending. Know what board clear spells your opponent may play on which turn and buff some of your creatures' health to live through them. As a bonus, Argent Squire can live with her Divine Shield. Also, don't be shy about trading your creatures for enemy creatures to lower the effect of board clear spells. Remember! Don't put out more creatures than necessary.

One of the goals of the deck, if you don't win early, is to keep the initiative until turn 9. If you still have the initiative at turn 9 and play Jaraxxus, you should win. Jarraxus is extremely good if you end the turn you play still him at 15 hp with some creatures out, and your opponent has no creatures out. If you do not have the initiative, then you will usually die even when trying to play Jaraxxus. But fortunately this deck is great at getting the initiative early and then keeping it.

Quick Tip: Don't be too scared to attack with Blood Imps. Don't just get it killed to the Mage hero power for no reason. If you can buff it and it will cost them a removal spell or creature to kill it, then go ahead and attack. Using Blood Imp aggressively reduces your vulnerability to many area of effect spells. Any time you're trading 1 mana cards for any card your opponent has, you gain the advantage. You can afford to trade off a bunch of cheap cards and draw new ones while your opponent risks running out of cards.


This deck is very good at using all its mana for the entire game. Early on, you can use all your mana because you have a lot of cheap spells. Later on, you can spend 2 mana per turn on Life Tap and then draw two cards, letting you play an average of two cards per turn. Between Life Tap and two cards per turn, you can usually spend all your mana even though the deck has a low mana curve.

Combos!

This deck features several combos that you should know about if you play the deck or play against it. Combos can be very powerful in the right situation and swing the game in the Warlock's favor.

 +  /  / 
Combo #1: Demonfire + Demons: Demonfire is usually thought of as a removal spell, but it also works well on Voidwalker and sometimes on Blood Imp or Flame Imp. If you play Voidwalker on your first turn and your opponent plays a Faerie Dragon, you can Demonfire your Voidwalker and kill the Faerie Dragon. You will end up with a 3/2 Taunt out and each side will have lost one card. It works even better if they play Northshire Cleric against your Voidwalker or Blood Imp!

 + 
Combo #2: Novice Engineer + Power Overwhelming: Novice draws a card when you play it so you don't have to worry too much about it dying. If you use Power Overwhelming on it, you can kill any 5 health creature. You will have used up only one card and your opponent will have used up one card too. But you likely spent less mana, thinned your deck, and possibly attacked with Novice earlier, so it's good for you. Further, trading one for one is usually good because you can draw new cards more easily than your opponent.

 + 
Combo #3: Argent Squire + Shattered Sun Cleric, Coin Optional: Dark Iron Dwarf and Defender of Argus both work great too. The idea here is to take advantage of Divine Shield. Suppose you are going second and play squire and your opponent plays a 3/2 creature. Now you can coin out Shattered Sun Cleric and kill his 3/2, while ending the turn with a 2/2 and a 3/3 out. That gets you a big lead early! Meanwhile, Dark Iron Dwarf can turn Argent Squire into a Scarlet Crusader which can also be really efficient.

 + 
Combo #4: Shadowflame + Power Overwhelming: Play a small creature, preferably a Novice Engineer or perhaps a Flame Imp. Then make it big with power overwhelming, and if you didn't play it this turn, attack your opponent for some good damage. Finally, blow it up with Shadowflame to kill all your opponent's creatures. This does more damage than a Flamestrike!

 + 
Combo #5: Sylvanas Windrunner + Power Overwhelming: What do you do if your opponent plays a really good creature, like Ragnaros or Ysera? Yeah, you have a lot of ways to kill it but I heard that Priest card, Mind Control, is pretty good. Don't you wish you could just steal it? Well, you can and Warlock’s version of Mind Control only costs 6 mana, not 8! All you have to do is use your other creatures to kill off all the opponent's creatures except for his good one, which is usually not too hard. Then you play Sylvanas and play Power Overwhelming so that she will die. At the end of the turn you steal their strong creature.

It's even better if Sylvanas was already in play. Then you can use Power Overwhelming on her and attack for 9 damage (to their face, or to kill off one of their extra creatures) before she dies!

Note that if they have several creatures, you can use Soulfire to kill one so you steal the right thing, just make sure you play Sylvanas and Power Overwhelming first so they don't get discarded.

 + 
Combo #6: Sylvanas Windrunner + Shadowflame: What if your opponent plays a powerful Taunt card Tirion? If you kill your Sylvanas, you may end up stealing his Silverhand Recruit. The Taunt protects his other creatures, and the other creatures protect the big one from Sylvanas. You could sacrifice Sylvanas with an attack and hope to get lucky but there is a better way! Play Shadowflame on Sylvanas and it will clear out all your opponent's weak creatures. The only survivor will be the strong creature you wanted to steal with Sylvanas, so you're guaranteed to steal it!

 +  / 
Combo #7: Jaraxxus Hero Power(Infernal) + Shadowflame or Defender of Argus: Jaraxxus's weakness is that he's a slow card. He costs 9 mana and doesn't do a lot the turn you cast him. Worse than that, he doesn't do much the next turn either. You can summon an Infernal but it can't attack yet. It's only 2 turns after you play Jaraxxus that you can first attack with an Infernal. However, you can take advantage of an Infernal before it's able to attack. How? There are two great options here. You can Shadowflame the Infernal to kill all your opponent's creatures or you can use Defender of Argus to give the Infernal Taunt.

Card Choices

Let's look over a few of the card choices so you can understand why each card is in the deck. We'll go over creatures organized by mana cost, then spells. Keep in mind that mana cost plays a huge role in the card choices.


The power of low cost minions!
For the 1 mana creatures, I want things that don't die too easily. Flame Imp andBlood Imp are great. Argent Squireand Voidwalker survive much better than the alternatives and you can even Demonfire the Voidwalker.

For 2 mana creatures, Novice Engineeris selected because you get the card draw immediately and it's a good top deck when you have a lot of mana. She also has 2 health so it stands a better chance of living long enough to be buffed by Shattered Sun Cleric or Dark Iron Dwarf. Knife Juggler works well in a deck with this many low cost creatures so he gets to shoot often.

At 3-4 mana we have the buff creatures: Sun ClericDark Iron Dwarf, and Defender of Argus. These are great for improving your earlier creatures to let them trade up for larger creatures or kill your opponent quicker.

For 5 mana, we have Azure Drake. Azure is a good card because you can play it and then Soulfire for 5 damage immediately. It's also a 4/4 that draws a card. The reason for only one Azure is that it takes a lot of mana to cast them and the cards they drew in the same game. After testing many games, I've come to the conclusion that 1 Azure Drake provides the best pacing for the game. We also have Sylvanas at 5 mana because she's an amazing card, especially with all the possible combos in this deck.

For 6 mana we use Argent Commander because it's such a strong card and belongs in almost every deck. The combination of Charge and Divine Shield lets you kill an opponent's creature and get a 4/3 creature of your own. It can also help finish off your opponent to end the game.

For spells, Soulfire does a great job of getting the initiative or finishing off an opponent. Mortal Coil helps control the board early or trade up while drawing a card. Demonfire helps kill your opponent's early creatures but if they don't play creatures you can still use it to buff your creatures’ health out of area of effect spell range and increase their attack for more direct damage. Power Overwhelming can help kill big creatures or help finish off your opponent and is useful in several combos. Shadowflame is a powerful card capable of killing many creatures at once. Finally,Jaraxxus gives you a huge amount of late game power once you start bringing out those Infernals.

Sideboard Options


I've considered and tested many alternative cards for this deck. Some are solid cards which I sometimes use if I know what deck I'm playing against. Others are less good and I don't recommend them. First let's consider some of the cards I would most often add to the deck against specific opponents.

Earthen Ring Farseer: This is a good card which I will add in against Mages and really aggressive decks. In the majority of games you will be more aggressive and protect your life that way. But some decks are just super aggressive and the combination of a healing ability and a creature can help fight them. Mages can also Pyroblast you directly even if you have board control so healing and killing the Mage are your only defenses. The Farseer can help with both.

Siphon Soul: This card costs a lot of mana and many opponents won't give you an ideal target. There aren’t too many ideal targets out there because any creature that is worth using a Siphon Soul removal is also a good target for Mind Control (or Sylvanas!). However, Siphon Soul is a good addition if you know you're playing against a deck with plenty of big creatures.

Acidic Swamp Ooze: There's not a lot to say here. I wouldn't use Ooze against a random deck, but I would be happy to add it if I know my opponent is using weapons. One tip is not to remove your Knife Jugglers for Ooze. Ooze is a card you will sometimes save past turn 2 to destroy a weapon, so if you remove your early creatures for ooze then you slow the deck down. More often I would consider removing Thalnos and Mortal Coil to add Oozes.

Loot Hoarder: Loot Hoarder isn't the ideal card against Mages, Rogues, Druids, and sometimes Paladins because their hero power can kill it off. It's not a disaster in that case, but it's not the best either. It works better against the other heroes so I would consider adding it in against them. Be especially careful against Priests. It's still a great card except for two major problems: Shadow Madness and Cabal Shadow Priest.

Faerie Dragon: Faerie is good against enemies who rely on kill spells, such as Mages and Priests. It's a solid alternative to Knife Juggler. The reason I normally use Juggler is because I have so many cheap creatures that I can get a lot of juggles. Also, I have plenty of other creatures that can be targeted by the opponent and their removal will still be useful even if I play Faerie Dragon.

Cards That Didn't Make the Cut


Void Terror: This is a powerful card that makes a great combo with Power Overwhelming or Sylvanas. It also interacts well with Blood Imp because it can "double dip," gaining health from the buffed creatures it consumes and then being buffed by Blood Imp itself. It's also useful for saving power from weak creatures that would die soon. If you have a 3/1 creature that you expect to die next turn, you can Void Terror it and get a 6/4 that's much harder to kill. Another good idea is to Void Terror a Novice Engineer or Thalnos against a Priest, which gets you a 4 attack creature (immune to Shadow Words) with too much hp to be killed by Argent Commander. However, Void Terror is a risky card which can do badly against silences or hard removal spells like Hex. Because the Warlock deck wins so consistently, I hesitate to add risky cards.

Abusive Sergeant: I like 1 mana creatures but we already have eight of them. This guy is good because he helps you trade up. But he's very weak against the Mage hero power if you don't have a Blood Imp out and he frequently dies to area of effect damage spells. I prefer Argent Squire and Voidwalker because they are more durable and Flame and Blood Imps because they are pretty amazing in general.

Harvest Golem and Scarlet Crusader: These are similar cards with 3 mana cost and have "two lives" in a sense. They are both good cards that I would consider using in other decks. However for this deck they cannot compete against Shattered Sun Cleric at 3 mana. This is a deck that has a lot of cheap creatures and focuses on taking board control so the Sun Cleric is the best 3 mana choice. The main reason I don't use Harvest and Scarlet is that I don't really want more 3+ mana cards unless they are really exceptional. Harvest and Scarlet are good, not amazing, so they won't get me to raise my mana curve, miss Life Taps, and have a less consistent first 2 turns.

King Mukla: Mukla is usually a great card on turn 3 (or 2 with coin) but the bananas are a serious problem and he's really bad when you're behind without board control. He can also be a bad card to draw later in the game so adding him to the deck would be a risky choice. Again, I currently don't feel the need to take a risk like this since the deck is so consistently strong.

Ragnaros (and Ysera): Ragnaros costs 8 mana, which is a lot. If you add him to the deck, sometimes you will draw him early on and he will sit in your hand for a while not doing anything. Sometimes he will shoot the wrong thing and then get Polymorphed. He is a powerful card for sure but I've found that having a very strong early game gives the deck the most consistent chance at winning. He's also bad against Mind Ccontrol. Ysera is similar to Ragnaros except significantly slower so don't even think about adding her.

Shadow Bolt: The problem with Shadow Bolt is that, like Mortal Coil, you don't always have a good target. To have a deck that can win consistently, it's really important to minimize the number of situational cards that will sometimes sit in your hand without doing much.

Sunfury Protector, Sen'jin Shieldmasta: These cards can be helpful against aggressive decks including Hunters with Unleash the Hounds. They are worth adding in occasionally if you know the content of your opponent's deck. But in general I don't recommend them. It's usually safer for this deck to just take the initiative and play aggressively, not try to defend with taunts.

Leeroy Jenkins, Doomguard, Succubus, Felguard, Pitlord: These are all risky cards that will sometimes win you games and sometimes be detrimental Because the deck does so well already, it's a bad idea to add inconsistent cards that mess a good thing up. Taking risks like this is currently unnecessary.

Drain Life: Drain Life is a weak card. I know some people like it, but they are mistaken. 3 mana to deal 2 damage is simply bad. Yes you get 2 life, but that isn't enough of a bonus to make up for 3 mana 2 damage being way too weak.

Matchups



Depending on the class, this deck can have from a slight less than even win rate all the way to 95% win rate. Here we'll talk about all the class matchups for this deck in order of worst matchup to best matchup. Generally, classes will do better against this deck if they have more tools available for the early game. For instance, the best matchup for the deck is against Priest while the worst is against Mage. Speaking of Mage...

Vs Mage

Mages are dangerous. Your main goal here is to control the board, kill all his creatures, and then attack him. Once he starts attacking your minions instead of your hero, you're in good shape. Just keep the pressure on so she can't get you to low HP. Very good aggressive Mage decks can be a bit of a coin flip ‒ if they draw good early game cards you can lose badly; conversely, if they draw badly, you can also win just as badly.

Be careful going below 15 life since that is close to the range of Fireball + Pyroblast ‒ being above 20 life is safer. Often you should save Jaraxxus until after they cast Pyroblast or at least Fireball on you unless you would die. Jaraxxus restores you to 15 health after a Mage burns you down, which can win you games. Watch out specifically for and play around Blizzard; if you survive early game relatively unscathed, Blizzard is one of the only ways for the Mage to get back into the game.

Vs Warlock

Most Warlocks play aggressive decks that aren't as well optimized and are thus more prone to bad hands. Therefore, you'll have the edge. Play the same as usual, trying to get and maintain board control. Shadowflame and Hellfire are very important cards in this matchup so consider adding more if you sideboard, and try not to lose to them in case your opponent has them.

Some other Warlock decks use Molten and Mountain Giants plus board clears like Hellfire and Shadowflame. They also use Sunfury Protector and Defender of Argus to give their Giants Taunt. Play aggressively and kill them as fast as possible. In most matchups you have a reasonable chance in longer games but against the Giants Warlock deck you'll need to win quickly. When their first big creature comes out, you have to carefully consider whether to attack them for the quick win or kill off their creature. It will take practice to make good decisions in those situations. Keep in mind that if you leave a Giant at 8/8 and attack them, they may give it Taunt and then use Faceless Manipulator to copy it.

Also, keep in mind that the card Sacrificial Pact is the dumbest thing ever in Warlock mirror matches. Not only does it kills your opponent's demons for 0 mana while healing you for 5 health, it can even kill Jaraxxus and instantly win the game. I hope Sacrificial Pact is changed to target only friendly minions (and to heal for more like 10 health, so it's not so bad). In the mean time, Sacrificial Pact should be banned from tournaments in my opinion. When I played against other Warlocks in recent tournaments with sidedecks, we usually agree not to use it.

Vs Rogue

Miracle Rogue is a good matchup. Play stuff aggressively and attack them. In general, playing regular creatures and attacking will win the game faster than setting up a combo.

A Rogue who builds her deck around Sun Cleric and Dark Iron Dwarf is a tougher matchup. Their weapons are powerful but you get to draw more cards with Life Tap. Both classes are excellent in the early game, so the battle in the early game will be crucial as whoever gets momentum first will usually keep it throughout the game. As usual, focus on getting creatures out quick and killing off all their creatures. If they don't have targets for their Sun Cleric and Dwarf and you have targets for yours, then you'll probably win.

Vs Shaman

The hardest type of Shaman to face uses Shattered Sun Cleric itself and fights hard for early board control. Stormforged Axe is the biggest danger at the start. Then be careful about losing too many creatures to a Lightning Storm. Considering using Life Tap once you have several creatures out against none. As the game moves on, you will probably use Argent Commander as normal. The difficult part is that Shaman has both Argent Commander and Fire Elemental. It's kind of like having two Argents against four. However, the card advantage from Life Tap can make up for it and you can still go above 50% in this matchup.

Some Shaman decks try to kill you with Bloodlust. They either use Murlocs or some other aggressive creatures. If they get lucky you will die, but it's still a good matchup. You have plenty of early game power, so just don't let them get an army built up.

Another type of Shaman uses a stealth creature, usually Stranglethorn Tiger, combined with Windury and damage boosts like Rockbiter Weapon, Flametongue Totem, and Abusive Sergeant. Like other combo decks, this deck has a weaker early game than you do. Play creatures and attack and put on a lot of pressure. If you get a slow start they might have a chance, but in a race between your aggression and them pulling off their combo, you will usually win.

Finally, there are slow control Shaman decks. You'll take the initiative easily at the start. Kill their totem every turn and never let them attack with any creatures. Your board control will make their buffs (like Flametongue Totem) useless and prevent Mana Tide Totem from providing value. When they play Earth Elemental, spend what you have to in order to kill it immediately and keep attacking. Don't worry about trading Soulfire and a creature (3 cards total), the overload will cause them big problems next turn. If they aren't dead yet, use Life Tap to counteract their card advantage and keep on the pressure until you finish them off.

Vs Hunter

A lot of Hunter decks use Unleash the Hounds to try to kill you in one turn. Most people will say to rely on Taunts and although you do have three Taunt cards in your deck, your priority should be to keep on the pressure instead of getting your Taunts. Unless they are really lucky, it will take them longer to set up the perfect combo in their hand than it takes you to kill them. You have the advantage. A big part of this matchup is knowing all the Hunter traps and knowing how to deal with them efficiently.

Some slower Hunter decks try to control the board with a lot of creature killing spells. Just get off to a quick start and keep the pressure up and you have the advantage.

Another type of Hunter deck is very aggressive with charge creatures and damage spells. They are dangerous and have a decent shot at killing you before you kill them. Be careful about using Life Tap if the game is almost over and another card won't change what turn you win on, but don't be shy about Life Tap in the early turns.

Vs Paladin

Fast Paladin decks can keep up with you early but run out of cards too easily. Usually their answer for this is Divine Favor, but since you'll also be burning through cards, Divine Favor won't be as effective for you. You have the edge. Keep killing off their creatures so they have no targets for Argent Protector, Sun Cleric, Blessing of Kings, etc

Slower Paladin decks will struggle because you get too big of a lead early on and you can keep up the pressure instead of running out of cards like non-Warlock aggressive decks often do. If they live to late game, you can win with Jaraxxus as long as you kept the initiative before to that point. They may have some strong late game cards, but if you make Infernals for a few turns while he's defending, you're going to win.

Vs Warrior

Aggressive Warriors can keep up with you, but will struggle to kill you. Then they will usually run out of cards but you won't, so you win. They have some powerful ways to deal a lot of damage fast, so you can't win every game, but you can certainly win more than half.

Other Warriors play a slower approach, possibly with the Molten Giant, Warsong Commander, and Youthful Brewmaster combination for the finishing blow. Or they may have a bunch of weapons. Either way, play your creatures and kill them. If you suspect Molten Giants, it's usually still better just to keep attacking and not care about letting them get 0 mana Molten Giants; they probably didn't draw everything they need yet to be able to kill you from high life.

Vs Druid

Some Druids play similar to Mages. They have some early aggression and some spells like Swipe and Starfire. This is an easier matchup than against Mages because there is no Pyroblast or Double Fireball to worry about; Wrath and Starfall cannot target your hero. Also, Druids have fewer early game options compared to Mages, so they'll have a much harder time keeping up with you there.

Other Druids play with cards like Wild Growth, Innervate, and big creatures. That's a good matchup too. You can get such a big lead early that trading inefficiently for a couple large creatures is an acceptable loss and you win anyway.

Vs Priest

Priests are easy. Play creatures, kill all their stuff, attack them, and try not to lose everything to Holy Nova and Shadow Madness. Almost all Priest decks are way too slow and don't really have a chance. I've tested very fast, good Priest decks and they still lose to board control Warlock.

Their best Mind Control targets are Sylvanas and Argent Commander. Never let them steal an Argent Commander with the Divine Shield still up. Note that if they Mind Control Argent Commander, they can attack with it immediately because it has charge.

Hearthstone BEST class for arena by TIER

Hearthstone Arena is similar to No Limit Holdem Poker in most respects.  There is an undeniable amount of luck involved, especially during the draft phase.  However, a highly skilled and knowledgeable player will usually find a way to overcome any deficiencies that were encountered during draft picks by their play on the table.  How did these players become skilled at Hearthstone so quickly?
You’ve heard the phrase ‘knowledge is power’, right?  It’s as simple as that.  It happens the same way as it happens with a poker player.  You start out consuming as much information as you can get your hands on and then you use that knowledge in your gameplay.  As you make mistakes you note them and fix them.  Finally, you grind out games until you have so much experience that you master whatever it is you are trying to excel at.  This is exactly how poker players become great at what they do.  Practice, practice, practice (Allen Iverson would not approve).

hearthstone beta key wow world of warcraft arena forge ccg tcg blizzard hearthstone arena
Choose wisely

Here is a quick list of the Hearthstone Best Arena Class by Tier.
Tier 1 – Mage, Priest, Warrior
Tier 2 – Paladin, Shaman, Druid, Warlock
Tier 3 – Rogue, Hunter
This list can also be called the meta for this particular patch.
  • Rogues took a significant hit to their credibility with the nerfs the class received
  • Priests and Warriors gained the most from the patch, and deservedly so considering they were two of the weaker classes pre-patch
  • Both Mage and Paladin have been two of the more consistent classes since closed beta began
  • Druid and Shaman take a small nerf bat and they have been seen less in Arena due to that.  However, they are still viable
  • Warlock and Hunter might be next in line to see a slight buff.
This information is based on my personal experience from playing, watching good streamers, and reading comments from the top players on the Hearthstone forums.  If you find yourself unable to figure out which hero to choose at the beginning of Arena, then you may want to consider the tier list above.  You can’t go wrong with choosing a Tier 1 class.  You will likely win at least 6 games if you know what you are doing and don’t get completely trashed on your draft choices.
Tier 2 has just as much ability to get to 9 wins as Tier 1, but these decks are hit or miss during draft and it may require a skilled player to be able to reach Grandmaster.  Paladin is a very powerful class when given the right class specific cards.  When you don’t get those cards it’s usually bad news, but that can be said about many of the classes.  That is one of the main problems with Arena in its current state, although the dev team did seem to address some of these issues in the most recent patch post wipe.
Tier 3 is the bottom of the barrel.  While the Hunter is one of the easiest and best classes to play in constructed mode, it struggles in Arena because of the limited choices on minions.  The chance that you will get half a deck of beasts is unlikely.
The good news is that all of the classes are beginning to move towards a more balanced situation compared to pre-wipe.  Blizzard is listening to the community and making changes for the betterment of the game.

How to get better at hearthstone

The short list is on top with the long explanations below if you care to read about them:
 
NEW: The TL:DR list:
 
1.) PERFECT practice makes perfect habits. Don't be afraid to practice vs the beginner and advanced A.I. until you're used to the game mechanics.
2.) Consider your next move during your opponent's turn (or even before that!).
3.) Play for VALUE. Trade 1 of your cards for 2 of your opponent's = they run out of cards and you dominate every game.
4.) If you're falling behind, consider trying to blitz your opponent with lethal damage before they can establish FULL control of the game.
5.) Watch Twitch.tv to get tips on arena and constructed. The best streamers talk out loud.
6.) Some decks will try to kill you within like 6 turns. You can stop it, but you need to be aware of what their strategy is ahead of time. The first minion can give you hints to what they plan to do next.
7.) Card drawing abilities, or "engines," that let you draw multiple cards are extremely important to winning games.
8.) When drafting arena, pick cards for their VALUE and not for "cute combos." 
The long list with explanations:
 
1.) Tons of practice doesn't make perfect. Practice makes HABIT. If you play tons of games and you're still going 3-3 in arena regularly, then you have BAD HABITS! In anything, this is the truth: PERFECT practice makes perfect. 
 
2.) When you play Hearthstone, consider what moves you are able to make for next turn before your turn begins. You may come up with 2-3 different strategies for spending your mana the next turn, depending on what your opponent may do. This is called forethought, and it is 100% essential to consider what your opponent is thinking and what he may do next turn. As a new player, you'll learn which cards your opponent may have as you play.
 
--- Feel free to skip this example and read on --- (For example, if you are playing against a priest opponent and you're on turn 4: Let's say you have 2 minions on the board at 2 toughness. You have a choice to play another 2 toughness creature or wait on that move. CONSIDER that your opponent, because he will have 5 mana once you end the turn and he begins his turn, may Holy Nova you to kill your minions. You don't want to spend mana on a card he's going to kill for free, so you save it and just attack/heal or whatever. His turn 5 comes and he blasts you with Holy nova, killing your creatures. You know he has a fat face and a smug look on the other end of his computer, but HA! You drop your 2 toughness creatures from your hand and still control the game. If you didn't consider this, you'd be crippled.)
 
3.) Play for VALUE. Make sure that whenever you play a card that it will trade at LEAST 1 of your opponent's cards to kill it. My goal is that every card I play will kill 2+ cards of my opponent's. If you play this way, you will always be "ahead" of your opponent. In order to keep up, your opponent will either have to draw extra cards or also trade for equal value. As a minor tip: when you pick cards in Arena, each card needs to be picked for the "value" that it will get you. This is why Yeti and Senjin Shieldmaster are such good picks -- they usually trade 2 for 1.
 
--- Feel free to skip this example and read on --- (Quick example: I drop 1 minion with Windfury and kill 2 of my opponent's minions. For a more detailed example, my opponent plays a weapon on turn 1. My next turn, I play an Acidic Swamp Ooze to kill the axe, and the next turn I am able to use the Ooze to kill one of his minions. I just traded my 1 card for 2 of his - the axe and the minion I killed. That is a 2 for 1 value. Notice that my opponent also got some value out of his axe by killing my Bloodfen Raptor, but even still, with that play, I am 1 card ahead in value. That means that I should have 1 more card in my hand or on the board than my opponent due to the play I made.)
 
4.) Control the board and you'll win, BUT if you're falling behind, consider that you may need to abandon "controlling" the board and aim to kill your opponent before he establishes complete control of the board. This is called AGGRESSION -- You aren't playing for "value" anymore, but you're aiming to deal that last bit of damage to your opponent before he establishes 100% control and die / you can't deal any damage anymore. Outright aggression from the start of the game is a good way to control the board -- What I'm talking about is a "last ditch effort" to drop your opponent's HP to zero before they win.
 
--- Feel free to skip this example and read on --- (For example: My opponent has 11 life. I am a mage with 1 fireball in my hand and zero other cards and 3 minions on the board that are 3/2, 2/2, and 4/2. It is my turn, I have zero mana, and my opponent has 4 minions out. One of them is Senjin Shieldmaster with Taunt, and one is a big 8/4 beast that will kill me in 2 turns. I send my 2/2 and 3/2 into his Shieldmaster and I have a choice to make... Do I kill the 8/4 with my 4/2 hoping to regain some control? No - I send it to attack my opponent's face and leave him at 7 life. If my opponent can't kill me next turn, I am going to win with my 6 damage fireball and my 1 damage hero ability. After my fireball, I have 0 cards and top-decking against that opponent is almost hopeless b/c he had 2 other minions out anyway. I win. Everyone goes out for ice cream to celebrate.)
 
5.) Watch Hearthstone streams on Twitch.tv - Several streamers do a great job at explaining what they are thinking inside their head. Ek0p, Trump, and noLIFE_Kripparian come to mind among others. If you watch their streams, you'll start making their moves and picking their picks. You might even think that awesome play you made in Arena was your own idea, completely forgetting that you watched Trump make the same play 2 weeks ago.
 
 
UPDATE: Tips contributed from other posters:
 
6.) When decks try to rush you down, be aware! Mage or Hunter decks only need to get you to around 15 hp for you to be truly in danger of death next turn, even if they don't have anything on the board. For a mage, the magic number is 11HP for a Fireblast + Pyroblast combo. For a hunter, they tend to go for "combos" in Constructed with beasts and "Unleash the Hounds." Make sure to kill any 1/1 "Young Dragonhawks" with windfury ASAFP -- they can quickly become 5/1's by turn 2-3! (Thanks to Lothix for suggesting this)
 
7.) Card draw is REALLY important. If you want to show off your skills, statistically that is much easier to do the more cards you have in your hand (and on the board). Nobody can "outskill" their opponent if you have 1 card in hand and they have 5. Almost anything you do is going to be answered by 1 or 2 of their cards. Therefore, make sure you have a few ways to draw cards in your deck. A few really great ways to do this are to:
 
- Use one card as an "engine" for your deck. A good example of this is Northshire Cleric for Priest, Starving Buzzard for Hunters, or Cult Master. If you can get multiple cards off of one of these, you're in the $$$$ and your opponent probably loses.
 
- Use draw cards that allow you to draw more than 1 card. A great example of this is Arcane Intellect for Mage, Battle Rage for Warrior, or Divine Favor for Paladin.
 
- Use one card to net you a BIG card draw once you are about to run out of steam. A great example of this is Sprint for rogue or Lay on Hands for Paladin. You're down to 1 card in hand, you sprint, and you're full steam ahead once more!
 
- Use "one off" cards that do something + allow you to draw a card. Power Word; Shield for a priest is a great way to draw a card, and allow you to keep your attacking minion alive for an easy kill of your opponent's minion. Value + draw ftw. Other examples are things like Gnomish Inventor, Hammer of Wrath for Paladin, or Flare for Hunters.
 
8.) When drafting arena, pick cards for their VALUE and not for "cute combos." Don't assume you will always draw X card when you have Y card in play or hand. This is different than deck synergy. For example, you should almost never draft Unleash the Hounds in Arena as a hunter.
 

I love the feedback I've received so far. I have one more tip to add:

9.) Avoid getting "too fancy" in Arena. What does that mean? To a noob, this tip is simply this: Aim to spend ALL of your mana each turn. To an above-average (but not elite) player, this means... Don't try to get too clever. Don't over-analyze what you believe your opponent is going to do. You might just convince yourself that what you THINK will happen is your opponent's only good move. The result? You will lose control of the board and will fall behind. This is a tough concept for a beginner to learn. It's more the "average" and "above average" players that do this. If you want to be elite 3-star master IRL, you need to stop getting fancy (or keep "getting fancy" as one of your strategies that you *rarely* use). Maybe it is better that I describe things this using an example:

GOOD STRATEGY: It is your turn 7. You have 7 mana to spend. You are a mage and playing vs a priest. They have zero minions on the board, and you have zero minions on the board as well. You know that 8 mana is the magic number for a priest, because they can mind control something. You definitely don't want to play your 7/7 War Golem because of this, so instead you play a few lesser minions to avert the danger of Mind Control. Good job. You play your 4/5 Yeti and your 2/3 Harvest Golem and end your turn.

TOO FANCY: It is your turn 7, you have 7 mana to spend, and are a mage. Your priest opponent has 1 minion this time - a 2/3 Harvest Golem. You have no minions out, but in hand, you have 4 cards... A 7/7 war golem, a 4/5 Yeti, a 2/3 Harvest Golem of your own, and a Blizzard. You decide that it would be good to avoid Mind Control, but that you'll really own him if you save Blizzard and don't play any minions. Then he'll surely have to dump more minions on the board next turn, and you're gonna OWN them with blizzard! Instead, he'll drop a 7/7 war golem of his own and you'll be behind by 1 turn. Man, don't you feel dumb for not playing something on the board! Your opponent is unpredictable. Prepare for that!
What's GOOD and what's BAD for each mana cost
If it is left blank, it means it is average
0
  1. Wisp - DO NOT EVER GET THIS
1
  1. Worgen Infiltrator - Amazing Card
  2. Abusive Sergeant - Situational
  3. Leper Gnome - Situational
  4. Argent Squire - Good Card
  5. Elven Archer - Good Card
  6. Voodoo Doctor
  7. Young Dragonhawk - Situational
  8. Southsea Deckhand
    • This card is way better, if you have a decent amount of weapons.
  9. Murloc Raider
  10. Shieldbearer
  11. Goldshire Footman
  12. Stonetusk Boar
  13. Grimscale Oracle
2
  1. Faerie Dragon
    • This card farms Priests and Mages. Possibly one of the best cards in the game.
  2. Acidic Swamp Ooze
    • Good stats and destroying weapons is awesome.
  3. Amani Berserker
    • Buffing this guy up and enraging him is very strong and scary.
  4. Mad Bomber
    • YOBO! You Only Bomb Once!
  5. Youthful Brewmaster - Great Card
  6. Bloodfen Raptor - Good Card
  7. Novice Engineer - Great Card
    • Cycling is good.
  8. Loot Hoarder - Good Card
    • Cycling is good.
  9. Ironbeak Owl - Amazing Card
  1.  Bloodsail Raider - Situational
    • This card is way better, if you have a decent amount of weapons.
  2. River Crocolisk - Good Card
  3. Dire Wolf Alpha
  4. Murloc Tidehunter
  5. Bluegill Warrior
  6. Kobold Geomancer
  7. Frostwolf Grunt
    • Please do not pick this card. Ever.
3
  1. Shattered Sun Cleric
    • So wow. Very awesome. Such 4/4 for 3. One of best cards in the game
  2. Scarlet Crusader
    • Divine Shield’… Good card
  3. Harvest Golem
    • 4/4 for 3. Nice!
  4. Raging Worgen - Good Card
  5. Earthen Ring Farseer - Good Card
    • The heal can be so useful.
  6. Flesheating Ghoul - Situational
  7. Acolyte of Pain
  8. Jungle Panther
  9. Ironfur Grizzly
  10. Razorfen Hunter - Good Card
  11. Wolfrider
  12. Ironforge Rifleman - Good Card
  13. Thrallmar Farseer - Good Card
  14. Tauren Warrior
  15. Raid Leader - Good Card
  16. Silverback Patriarch
  17. Dalaran Mage - Situational
  18. Magma Rager
4
  1. 1. Chillwind Yeti - Awesome Card
    • Value!
  2. Dark Iron Dwarf - VERY STRONG CARD
    • 6/4 for 4. That is strong.
  3. Senjin Shieldmasta - Good Card
    • Really strong ‘Taunt’-Card.
  4. Spellbreaker - One of best cards in game
    • Decent ‘Silence’.
  5. Acient Brewmaster - Great Card
  6. Cult Master - Good Card
    • Can be useful or useless.
  7. Gnomish Inventor Good Card
    • Cycling is good.
  8. Stormwind Knight
  9. Dragonling Mechanic
  10. Silvermoon Guardian
  11. Ogre Magi - Good Card
  12. Oasis Snapjaw
  13. Mogushan Warden
  14. Dread Corsair
    • This card is way better, if you have a decent amount of weapons.
5
  1. Silver hand Knight - Great Card 
    • 6/6 for 5. I take that any day
  2. Venture Co. Mercenary - Great Card
    • 7/6 for 5. A huge threat, but it can backfire.
  3. Stranglethorn Tiger
    • Very solid card overall.
  4. Fen Creeper
    • A really nice ‘Taunt’-Card.
  5. Spiteful Smith
    • This card is way better, if you have a decent amount of weapons, but it is still good without weapons.
  6. Frostwolf Warlord
  7. Gurubashi Berserker
  8. Darkscale Healer
  9. Stormpike Commando - Good Card
  10. Booty Bay Bodyguard
  11. Nightblade - Good Card
6
  1. Boulderfist Ogre - Great Card
    • Value!
  2. Frost Elemental - Good Card
    • Freezing stuff is so annoying.
  3. Lord of the Arena
  4. ArchMage
  5. Reckless Rocketeer
  6. Windfury Harpy
  7. Priestess of Elune
7
  1. Stormwind Champion
  2. War Golem
  3. Core Hound

Here is some more detail of each card if you want to look into it

1SpellbreakerThe #1 Common/Basic neutral card goes to Spellbreaker.  As a four attack minion, it is able to trade against most other four mana minions.  Additionally, silencing is “quasi-removal” with many applications from reducing that monstrous twilight drake down to a 4/1 to removing a buff spell to preventing card draw such as loot hoarder to preventing death rattle effects such as harvest golem to removing a minion’s taunt for that final blow.  Amazing flexibility and power while retaining good stats.
2Cult MasterI rank Gnomish Inventor highly – and Cult Master is even better.  Cult Master is a 4/2 instead of the 2/4 of the Gnomish Inventor which makes it less durable, but he has a lot more upside.  You should generally play him when you are about to trade a minion for an opponent’s so you can guarantee yourself at least one draw.  He gets better when you can trade two on the same turn.  He gets disgusting if you can protect him and keep trading minions.  Drawing four or more cards with the cult isn’t out of the question.
3Dark Iron DwarfDark Iron Dwarf is a stout 4/4 for 4.  But that’s not all!  In addition, the battlecry is extremely powerful, often allowing for plays where your weaker minion is able to trade up and you still get a 4/4 for a great momentum change.  Or, if they have nothing, the pressure is immense.  Just think, it’s a “6/4″ for 4!  As a warning, this battlecry is manditory so if you have no minions and your opponent has one, you’ll have to buff their minion, making this card quite bad only if you are already in a terrible position.
4Chillwind YetiSurprised to see this boring guy up as the #4 pick?  Yeti wins games.  It beats nearly any other four mana minion in one on one combat (in fact, it beats every common/basic four mana minion) and survives to tell the tale, often forcing a 2-for-1 trade when played earlier.  It is the most exciting plain card!
5Acidic Swamp OozeWeapons are huge game changers which often result in a 2 for 1 for your opponent.  Ooze most often allows you to save one minion by destroying the (remaining) one durability on the weapon.  On even higher durability weapons such as Assassin’s Blade or Doomhammer, the ooze is even better.  Save oozes against rogues and warriors when possible.  If you have the luxury, save against shaman and hunter.  Still, it is generally correct to play the ooze on turn 2 if you have no other play.
6Amani BerserkerA beastly minion which will kill most 1 mana drops and then become a 5 attack minion.  At its worst, it trades off against most 2 mana drops.  At its best, it gets buffed in some way (such as with Shattered Sun Cleric), kills a 2 mana minion, then trades against a much higher mana cost minion.  If you’re a mage, you can consider the sometimes useful play of using your hero ability to fireblast it and change it into a 5/2.
7Harvest GolemFantastic insurance against any board clear.  Also, a great deal for its cost since adding up the attack and health of the deathrattled golem in addition to the base one’s stats gives you a 4/4 for 3 mana.  A very strong play against pretty much any 2 drop because it often trades and then gives you a 2/1.
8Shattered Sun ClericThe battlecry allows you to often win the important 2 drop against 2 drop trade and give you momentum.  Your 2/3 you played on turn 2 now kills their 3/2 and you survive to potentially kill another.  Your 4/5 yeti now kills their 5/5 and lives to tell the tale.  You also get a 3/3.  Very nice, basic, and strong.
9Gnomish InventorFour health is the magic number to be able to survive the general 3 attack of the 2 drops and 3 drops.  Two attack is strong enough to take out many 2 drops.  If you can play this card and kill something like a 3/2, this gnome still survives and has the potential to 3-for-1.
10Raging WorgenThis is a fearsome three drop that sometimes wins the game by itself when facing anything which does not have 3 attack.  Your opponent on turn 2 plays a 2/3.  You on turn 3 play the Raging Worgen.  Your opponent on turn 3 plays a 3/3.  You kill his 2/3, windfury enrage and kill the 3/3.  An easy 2 for 1.  Maybe your opponent goes first and plays the novice engineer (1/2) on turn 2.  You coin and play this.  Your opponent plays a guy on turn 3.  You kill his novice engineer, enrage, then attack him for 4, and remove his guy with a spell.  Suddenly you can attack for 8 a turn.  Terrifying.  Even better with buffs.
11Silver Hand KnightMy pick for best five drop in the neutral basic and common category.  Excellent value, getting 6/6 worth of attack and health for 5 mana.
12Venture Co. MercenaryExcellent value, getting 7/6 for 5 mana!  Yes, it has a drawback, but don’t be afraid of playing it on turn 5.  Your opponent will generally try hard to kill it.  If he doesn’t, start punishing him by killing his minions off.
13Senjin ShieldmastaAffectionately known as “Taz’dingo”, I rate him the strongest common/basic taunt because it is difficult to do 5 damage with any one card under 5 mana.  Very similar to the Chillwind Yeti, just trades 1 attack for taunt.  My pick for the strongest neutral common taunt.
14Stormwind ChampionEspecially good in a paladin and/or shaman deck, but great in any deck.  Play it with a lot of minions on your side and you’re in a dominating position.  For that reason, if you know you’ll be playing the champion soon, aim to play several small minions as opposed to a big minion – the buff gives more benefits.
15Boulderfist OgreA very good big guy.  Like the Chillwind Yeti, very efficient for its cost.  Only a handful of cards in the basic/common slots can kill an ogre, it takes a good effort to bring him down.  Draft this higher if you have few 6 cost minions.
16Flesheating GhoulPlay it on a turn in which you kill something and have it live and it’s a 3/3.  Play it on a turn where you trade something and it’s a 4/3.  These are common occurrences, and sometimes the ghoul grows to be quite large in attack even past these numbers.
17Jungle PantherAlmost always trades up because four mana drops tend to have four or less health, and since it has stealth you get to control what it trades against.  Will usually kill a 4 mana drop.
18Ironbeak OwlSpellbreaker’s little brother.  Still good for the silence effect.  The 2/1 body isn’t too inspiring, but it’s something.  Taking too many of these weakens your deck.  I recommend taking the first one somewhat highly and then future ones to be at this level or lower (and, if you’ve taken spellbreaker(s) already, to not focus too much on taking the owl).
19Loot HoarderThe dream of the hoarder is to trade against anything with two or less health since you gain a card on the exchange.  This situation happens often.  This card is weaker against a druid, mage, and rogue because they are able to remove it with their hero ability – still, even in that worst case, it’s your 2 mana for their 2 mana.
20Faerie DragonObviously stronger than the bloodfen raptor.  Bonus things to consider is to put the faerie dragon in the middle of your minions to prevent: Explosive Shot, Betrayal, Cone of Cold, etc.  Also, surprisingly annoying since it can’t be removed via spells and/or hero abilities.
21Dire Wolf AlphaGenerally a poor play on turn 2 as your first minion because it is possible that you play it on turn 2, your opponent responds with a 2/3 and your alpha wolf is dead.  Best when you’ve played minions (…ideally two), then on the turn when you’re about to attack, you play the wolf and trade up (or do more damage) with both minions.
22Ancient BrewmasterFive mana for a 5/4 is strong.  It’s a good play to play it when you have nothing on the board (so you don’t have to bounce anyone).  Even better is when you have a relevant battlecry (or – attack a minion with your minion and bounce it after it’s been damaged).  Or both!
23Mad BomberThough Mad Bomber may seem incredibly random, playing it in favorable spots can make the bomber very valuable.  If your opponent plays a 1 health minion on turn 1 and you play the Mad Bomber on turn 2, you have a 70% chance of killing it.  Play the Mad Bomber when you have enrage mechanics, when your opponent has divine shield, and/or when your opponent has 1 health minions remaining (or, you need to do 1 damage to something to kill it in addition to a minion attack – then bomber first, see if it hits, then potentially attack and finish it off in a situation you normally wouldn’t have been able to.
24Novice EngineerYou get a “free” 1/2 in terms of cards.  Generally a card to be played if you can’t spend the mana elsewhere.  The effects of the Novice Engineer are subtle but it’s still a good card.  Ideal value is to use it to trade for a 2/1 or to kill a 1/1.
25Stormpike CommandoThe battlecry is very strong.  Play it to finish something off or to kill a two health minion.  The stats on this guy aren’t great, but often stormpike commando manages a 2-for-1.
26Stranglethorn TigerGood stats.  The stealth is very helpful in allowing you to selectively pick off the biggest threat.  Also, a good finisher when your opponent is low enough or you have a buff – they’re unlikely to be able to deal with a 5/5 stealth.
27Worgen InfiltratorSurprisingly strong.  The only one cost neutral minion I have as a good minion.  Against rogues, warriors, and druids, do not come out of stealth until you’re killing a two health minion.  Will usually trade up against a 2 cost 3/2.
28Dragonling MechanicSolid stats – able to trade with a 3/2 and live.  Brings a 2/1 with it.  Nice.  4 attack and 5 health worth of stats for 4 (though, the 1 health is not too strong against many heroes, hence why the mechanic isn’t higher on the list).
29Acolyte of PainA minion very similar to the novice engineer but with more possibilities.  The general rule of thumb is if you can find a way to draw more than just one card off of it then you’re doing really well.  Attack this into a minion with 1 or 2 attack.  Fireblast it if you’re a mage and have the spare mana.  This card is significantly better in mages, paladins, and druids (great with buffs).
30Frostwolf WarlordA 5/5 for 5 is the norm.  Sometimes, you have an empty board – Frostwolf Warlord is of course poor in that situation; however, Frostwolf Warlord is a 5/5 “standard” as long as you have just one other minion.  Sometimes it gets a bit bigger – a 6/6 or a 7/7 is excellent value for this card.  Particularly good in shaman and paladin decks due to their ability to use their hero ability to summon guys.
31Youthful BrewmasterGood play on turn 2, don’t be afraid of “wasting” the battlecry.  It’s both a benefit and a drawback.  Many times you won’t have something you want to return to your hand.  Many times though, it’s great.  Return interesting battlecries, return minions that are about to die and replay them later.  You can even return a charge who has already attacked and play it and have it attack again!
32Bloodsail RaiderA basic 2 mana 2/3.  Don’t be afraid of playing it on turn 2.  Pick this card highly as a rogue or if you have weapons.  If this plays as a 3/3 for 2 mana, it is quite strong.
33Stormwind KnightThis card is very similar to the Stormpike Commando.  When it comes into play you can deal 2 damage with it and often have it still survive due to its high health.
34Earthen Ring FarseerThe battlecry is very useful.  Try to use it on a minion over yourself after you have sent it at someone.  Even if you have to make the choice of healing one damage on a minion (say, a 3/2 which is a 3/1) that is often better against certain classes (rogue, druid, mage which can deal one damage).
35Scarlet CrusaderDon’t let the one health scare you.  As long as it’s played early, it will nearly guaranteed kill something with 3 health.  Against classes that can’t deal one damage with their hero ability, it’s even a possible early 2 for 1 in your favor.
36Fen CreeperBig health.  Unlikely to die to any single attack from any minion with mana cost four or less.  Stronger in a deck that wants to play for the late game (and weak in an aggressive deck).
37River CrocoliskBoring but essential.  I rate it slightly better than the Bloodfen Raptor (3/2) because the croc can potentially kill a 2/1 1 drop or a 2/2 2 drop and still suirvive.  Like the raptor, if you’re a hunter, the card’s even better since it’s a beast.  It has a slight disadvantage if you face a hunter since it’s a beast.
38Lord of the ArenaAn “aggressive taunter”.  High attack, but a low five health.  I always pick ogre over this, but sometimes when you’re lacking ogres, perhaps the lord will do.
39Razorfen HunterYou get 3/4 “worth” of value for 3.  That would seem pretty good, but the boar often randomly dies and then you have a 2/3 for 3, which is poor.  Meh.
40Bloodfen RaptorThe basic average 2 mana 3/2.  It’s alright.  If you’re a hunter, the card’s even better since it’s a beast.  It has a slight disadvantage if you face a hunter since it’s a beast.
41Gurubashi BerserkerA stylish minion.  Use finesse.  Start by killing the low attack minions and then move your way up from there.  Benefits greatly from being buffed, and also this pick is much stronger for mages since using your hero attack exchanges one health for three attack.
42Silvermoon GuardianIn one on one combat, this will trade with a 3/6.  That’s good!  However, the downside, is it can die to a random damage and to say a 4/5 Yeti.
43Ironfur GrizzlyA 3/3 for 3.  Decidedly mediocre and boring.  The addition of taunt doesn’t do too much, since it generally dies to one attack from 2 and 3 mana minions.
44Darkscale HealerThe lack of 5 attack hurts a lot.  Still, if you play this after committing to a lot of minion combat, you may find some value in this healer.
45Oasis SnapjawThe champion at fighting two health minions.  Takes on three 3/2s!  Great against aggressive decks with a lot of small guys.  These high health minions are even better in a priest deck.
46Booty Bay BodyguardAn “aggressive taunt”.  The four health is fairly weak for its cost.  It is great, though, if it forces a trade with higher cost minions [such as 6/5s!]  It is poor when it is up against lower cost minions [such as 4/3s].
47Spiteful SmithA 4/6 for 5 is perfectly fine, even if you have no weapons.  This card goes up tremendously in value with weapons (it has been placed this low on the list assuming no weapons)
48Bluegill WarriorI like to think of him as 2 mana: deal 2 damage.  That is okay.  A fine answer to many 2 mana troublesome drops such as Pint Sized Summoner.
49War GolemA big guy.  Big guys are good, though this one isn’t too inspirational.  Better if you have no big guys.  Worse if you already have a lot of big guys.
50ArchmageA lot of health and big enough to kill most medium sized minions in one hit.  A good board control card, and, needless to say, better if you have spells that deal damage.
51WolfriderSimilar to Bluegill Warrior.  It’s 3 mana: deal 3 damage.
52Ogre MagiCompared to the chillwind yeti, it trades 1 health for 1 spell attack.  That’s generally a trade I wouldn’t make; still, with spells, this card rises in value.
53Frost ElementalA big guy, but weak stats compared to the “gold standard” of the ogre for six cost.  Its redeeming quality lies in, of course, its battlecry, which unfortunately is sometimes mediocre.
54Mogushan WardenI am loathe to take this card as it often simply deals 1 damage to 2 minions which are forced to attack into it.
55Kobold GeomancerI hate two mana 2/2s unless they have a significant effect.  This one lacks that.  It tends to be a weak play on turn two since it can face up against a 2/3 and die.  Has some value if you play it just before (or ideally, on the same turn) as you play a spell that deals damage.
56Dalaran MageUnfortunately, a 1/4 is not good enough for 3.  The spell power is not generally useful enough to make up for this shortcoming in stats.
57Priestess of EluneThis six mana card trades evenly with the four mana 4/5 chillwind yeti, which speaks about how strong the yeti is compared to this card.  Thebattlecry is not very significant.
58Murloc Tidehunter“3/2″ of value for 2, with the distinct downside, though, that classes that can deal one damage will have no problem (eventually) killing these murlocs.
59Windfury HarpySix mana for a minion with only five health (and four attack!) is a bad deal – yes, it is technically an “8/5″ when you attack with it but before then your opponent will try to get rid of it and it will only be a 4/5.
60Reckless RocketeerThe lowest amount of health on a six mana minion!  This is often 6: Deal 5 damage.  If you manage to get it behind a taunt or play it on an open board, it being able to attack twice can be quite a significant amount of damage.
61Ironforge RiflemanA three mana 2/2 is awful.  It does one damage which is a nice battlecry, but is not nice enough to justify the cost.  If you want to deal one damage, roll the dice with Mad Bomber which costs 1 less, has 1 more attack, and gives you 3 chances at one damage!
62Abusive SergeantAgainst non druid-mage-rogue, 2/1s are a valid play on turn 1 (and the dream is to kill their 3/2 on turn 2).  Otherwise, an okay trick which gives you a bonus which can often cause a minion to trade up.
63Raid LeaderRemember when I said I don’t like 2/2s for 2?  I hate 2/2s for 3.  The effect is good, but the raid leader is too fragile.
64Thrallmar FarseerAn inferior 3 drop since it dies to the mediocre 3 mana 3/3s.  As is the same for all windfury minions, is better if you can buff it.
65Leper GnomeMay seem good, and this card’s value does go up in an aggressive deck, but 1 Health minions are simply too fragile.
66Dread CorsairA strictly worse Ironfur Grizzly unless you have weapons.  With 3+ weapons or as a rogue, this card is actually good.
67Core HoundFive health is not acceptable for seven mana.
68Tauren WarriorThis 3 drop trades with minions 1 mana less – 3/2 2 drops.  It also simply dies to mediocre 3 mana 3/3s.  A clear example of how just because a card has taunt and it has some attack, it isn’t good.
69Frostwolf GruntA 2/2 for 2 with only taunt just doesn’t cut it.  Dies to 2/3.
70Silverback PatriarchA 1/4 for 3 with only taunt also doesn’t cut it.  Dies to a 2/3.
71Elven ArcherDoesn’t do enough to warrant it being a card.
72Voodoo DoctorDoesn’t do enough to warrant it being a card.
73Southsea DeckhandThis one actually doesn’t suck if you have a lot of weapons and can consistently play it as a 2/1 charge for 1.
74Argent SquireNot big enough to be a threat to anything.  Generally ignored.  If you had to pick this, buffing it is nice.
75NightbladeThe battlecry effect isn’t enough for this overpriced card.
76Goldshire FootmanLike the Frostwolf Grunt, it’s too weak to carry out it’s role as a taunter.
77Magma RagerHaving only one health makes this card quite bad.
78ShieldbearerCan’t protect things too well without any attack value.
79Stonetusk BoarLike the Elven Archer, but nearly strictly worse.
80Murloc RaiderI mentioned other 2/1s for 1 with minor abilities not being good.  This one has no ability.
81Young DragonhawkThe first risk is that it dies to the random one damage that many classes have access to.  Still, if you had nothing better to pick, this card works well with buffs.
82WispA 1/1, despite it being free to cast, does not justify spending a card to play.
83Grimscale OracleYou can’t count on drafting a murloc deck in arena.